Autumn is when black clothes come back out: the knit you've worn for years, the plain coat, the shirt you reach for without thinking. They are good clothes. They just need something at the top.
The neck and shoulders are where people look first. A single piece there changes the shape of everything below it, and you don't have to buy a new wardrobe to do it. Here are three ways to dress that space this season: a cowl, a cape and a collar.
The cowl: one piece, two shapes
A cowl adds volume and texture without adding another layer to your body. Worn over a V-neck or a bare-shouldered knit, it fills the neckline and frames the face.
The Black Ruched Snap Cowl is made of ruched wool gauze, and its five snaps decide its shape. Fasten them all and it stands as a high turtleneck. Undo them and it falls into a soft, draped cowl. It is lined with soft knit jersey, so the side against your neck feels as good as the side people see.
For more volume, the Black Ruched Oversized Snap Cowl is cut from the same ruched wool gauze, lined in silk satin and fastened with a single snap at the top side. It holds its shape over a coat as well as a sweater.
How to wear it: over a plain black knit, with a slim or wide trouser. Let the cowl be the only texture in the outfit.
The short cape: the line at the shoulder
A short cape does what a jacket can't. It sits on the shoulders and moves when you do, so a plain dress or a fitted knit underneath gains a silhouette without losing its own line.
It also works between seasons. Over a shirt in early autumn, over a fine knit when it turns cold, and over a long dress for an opening or an evening out.
How to wear it: keep what's underneath close to the body, so the cape is the only volume. Black on black lets the shape do the talking.
My last capes have sold out. New short capes arrive on 5 November, 7pm Central in the Outerwear collection.
The collar: the third layer
A detachable neck collar is the smallest of the three and the easiest to wear every day. Victorian-inspired, it sits over whatever you already own: a top, a dress, a coat or a knit. It fastens at the back with a snap or a tie, so it goes on in seconds and comes off just as fast.
Shown: the Black Guipure Lace Neck Collar.
The collars are made in small batches, and many are one of a kind. Dry clean or spot clean.
How to wear it: over a crew-neck sweater for work, or over a plain black dress when you want one detail and nothing else. For a full guide to fit and styling, read How to Wear a Neck Collar: A Style Guide.
One piece at a time
You don't need all three. Start with the piece that suits how you dress: a cowl if you live in knits, a cape if you love a strong shoulder, a collar if you want something small that changes everything.
New cowls and capes arrive on 5 November. Subscribers to the newsletter hear first.
Sumie
